How Do You Read A Crochet Pattern?

Crochet Tutorials

This is the question I always asked when I first started to crochet again. I never knew how to read patterns and no matter how many books I looked at. I was determined to learn, and I did. It’s a lot simpler than you think. In this tutorial you will learn to read crochet patterns. This is a long one, so get your cup of coffee, tea, or cocoa and get ready to learn how to read crochet patterns. I also included a quick lesson on how to read amigurumi patterns.

Learning The Crochet Lingo

When you first look at a crochet pattern, it may look a bit like hieroglyphics, which can be quite confusing. All you see are short abbreviations, brackets, parenthesis, asterisks and numbers. Which was quite confusing for me when I first learned to read patterns. So to make this easier to understand, let’s look at some basic abbreviations.

Basic Crochet Abbreviations

  • CH – Chain
  • SL ST – Slip Stitch
  • SC – Single Crochet
  • HDC – Half Double Crochet
  • DC – Double Crochet
  • TR – Treble (Triple) Crochet

 

These are basic crochet terms that you will encounter in most crochet patterns. They make patterns easier to read and understand. At first glance they may look confusing, but once you memorize them and understand the meaning of each abbreviation, you will be good to go. Most crochet patterns have abbreviations, so don’t worry if you can’t memorize them right away.

 

Common Crochet Terms

  • CH-SP – Chain space
  • SP – Space
  • SK – Skip a stitch
  • ST/STS – Stitch(s)
  • T-CH – Turning chain (This is the chain you make at the beginning of each row)
  • REP – Repeat
  • Turn – Turn
  • Join – Join two stitches together by slip stitching
  • INC – Increase your stiches, this means to stitch two stitches in the same stitch
  • DEC – Decrease is to crochet a stitch over two stitches. Begin your stitch in first stitch and finish in second stitch
  • FO – Fasten off your work

 

Example 

 CH 8, SC in second CH from hook, across, CH 1,  turn  – (7)

This means you will chain 8, then single crochet in the second chain from your hook, which is the second to last chain of your hook, and single crochet in each stitch until the end of the first row. Remember that unless indicated CH 1, does not count as a stitch unless the pattern says so. CH 1, is what is called the turning chain, it keeps your row up to height. The (7) is just an indicator of how many stitches you should have by the end of the row. Not all patterns have this, but for those that do, this helps.

 

Let’s try an example using increases and decreases (INC and DEC)

 

Example 

 INC in first stitch, SC in next six STS, DEC  (SC2TOG), CH 1,  turn – (9)

This means you will single crochet twice  in the next stitch, remember INC means to increase by two stitches in the same stitch. You will then SC in the next six stitches, and you will  DEC  in the last 2 stitches of the row. CH 1 and turn your work. Just a reminder, CH1 does not count as a stitch.

 

These are two basic examples of how to read a basic crochet pattern, if you want to get a bit more technical, let’s move on to a few more examples. Don’t worry if you get confused, remember to use the abbreviations and terns guides to help you. You may also use the terminology and abbreviations reference guide available on The Crafty Yarn Council website. 

 

Brackets, Parentheses and Asterisks

  • Brackets – Brackets are used to group stitches that are repeated
  • Parenthesis – Describe a group of stitches that are to be worked together in the same stitch
  • Asterisks – Are used to show a set of repeated stitches or actions.

 

In the next examples we will be learning how to read a pattern using brackets, parenthesis and asterisks. These are an easier way to understand crochet patterns.

Example 

 In the next stitch work,  (2 DC , CH 1, 2 DC ) in next ST

In this example you will double crochet twice in the next  DC stitch. You will then double crochet twice, chain 1 and double crochet twice, in the very next stitch.

 

Sometimes the pattern will have you do what’s inside the parenthesis in several stitches. The example below explains this.

 Example 

INC in first ST, (DC 2, CH 1, DC 2 ) in next 6 STS

In this example it’s a lot like the previous example, only this time you are doing what is inside the parenthesis, for the next 6 stitches. So you will double crochet twice in the first stitch, then in the next stitch you will double crochet twice, chain 1 and double crochet twice, you will continue doing this sequence in the next six stitches.

 

Now let’s view an example that uses brackets, which are similar to using parenthesis.

Example 

INC in first ST, [CH 2, SC in CH-1 Space] 4 times 

This is similar to  the previous example,  except this time you repeat what’s inside the brackets 4 times. In the previous example you repeat stitches inside the parenthesis in the next 6 stitches. In this example you repeat what is in the brackets, 4 times across the row.

 

As you can see, parenthesis and brackets work in a very similar fashion. Not all crochet patterns use brackets or parenthesis, but it does help to know what they mean, in case you do come across a pattern that has them. Then there are asterisks. Asterisks are used to show a set of repeated stitches or instructions. In this next example, you will see how they work.

 

Example 

*SC in the next ST, and SL ST in the next 3 STS*  REP from * to *  twice

In this example you will single crochet in the next stitch, and slip stitch in the next 3 stitches. You will repeat this twice

 

All you are doing is simply repeating what is in between the asterisks. * Let’s look at another example of using asterisks.

Example 

CH 3, *HDC in next ST, SK 1* REP  from * to * , to end of row

In this example you will chain 3, and you will then half double crochet in the next stitch, and skip 1 stitch. You will repeat this sequence until the end of the row

 

 

The next example will be a little more complex as it uses brackets, parenthesis, and asterisks.

 

Example

CH 2, HDC in next 3 STS, *[HDC, CH 2,]* REP from * to * in the next 3 stitches, (HDC, CH 2 HDC) in the last 3 stitches. 

In this example you will chain 2, and half double crochet in the next 3 stitches, you will then half double crochet and chain 2, and repeat the process in the next 3 stitches. You will then half double crochet and chain 2 and half double crochet in the last 3 stitches. Remember the sequence in parenthesis are done in the same stitch.

 

WHAAAT?! I know!! I know!! But I promise you it’s not as hard as it seems. Most of these examples are simply that, examples. They are not part of any pattern, but they are there to give you a general idea of how to read them, and what to look for.

The main thing you need to remember is the meaning of the abbreviations, and terminology. This doesn’t mean you need to memorize them, but it’s good to check them out for reference. These are your keys to understanding basic pattern reading. The way I learned was through a book that I personally consider a “crochet bible”. It’s called Stitch and Bitch Crochet – The Happy Hooker. This was the first book I purchased to learn everything about crochet. It even comes with some really nice patterns.

Materials Needed

  • Yarn – The pattern will tell you what type of yarn you will need to use
  • Hook Size – Crochet hooks come in all sizes, the pattern will let you know exactly what size you need to use
  • Yarn Needle – To sew in your ends once your piece is finished
  • Small Scissors – To cut the ends after sewing them in or fastening them off
  • Poly-Fill/Stuffing – For amigurumi patterns

Gauge

Gauge is important, but not all patterns require it. However, some do and the best way to understand gauge is by creating what is called a swatch. In the following example you would need to create a swatch of 12 stitches and 12 rows in order to get a 4×4 inch square.

 

Gauge Example

12 stitches and 12 rows = 4 inches, this is using an I/9 5.5mm hook

 

How To Measure Gauge

The best way is to take your ruler, or measuring tape and measure the number of rows and  the number of stitches that make 1 inch. You can also use a Crochet Gauge Ruler to help you measure your gauge. I use one, and it really helps.

Is Gauge Really Necessary?

If you are creating clothing accessories such as, hats, headbands, sweaters, or any kind of wearable items, then it’s a good idea to know gauge. Some items such as amigurumi, appliques, or blankets, and even some bags, don’t necessarily need gauge. When it comes to crochet and even knit, the way I see it is, it’s really up to you how you work your items. Just know your measurements, especially if you crochet clothing.

How To Read Amigurumi Patterns

One last thing I want to show you on how to read crochet patterns is how to read amigurumi crochet patterns. This example is from one of my own patterns.

 Example Amigurumi Pattern

R1: In MCSC 6 (as an alternative to the MCCH 2, SC 6, in second chain from hook) (6)

R2: INC in each stitch, x6 (12)

R3: SC 1 in next stitch, INC in next stitch, x6 (18)

R4: SC 1 in next two stitches, INC in next stitch, x6 (24)

R5: SC 1 in next three stitches, INC in next stitch, x6 (30)

 R6: In BLOSC in each stitch around (30)

 R7- R12: SC in each stitch around, SL ST to first SC, (at end of R12FO (30)

In this example you start by single crocheting 6 stitches in the the magic circle, if you don’t know the magic circle, don’t worry, and alternative is to chain 2 and single crochet 6 stitches into the second chain from the hook. In round 2, you will single crochet increase 6 times, that’s what the 6x means. You should have 12 stitches at the end of the round. In round 3, you will single crochet 1 in the next stitch, and then single crochet increase in the next stitch. You will do this x6 and should have 18 single crochet stitches at the end of the round. In round 4, you will single crochet in the next 2 stitches and then single crochet increase in the next stitch, x6. You should have 24 single crochet stitches. In round 5, you will single crochet in the next 3 stitches and single crochet increase in the next stitch, x6, this will give you 30 stitches at the end. In round 6 you will single crochet in each stitch in back loops only. In rounds 7 to 12 you will single crochet in each stitch, and at the end of round 12 you will slip stitch to the first stitch and fasten off your work.

  • Round 1 – Single crochet 6

  • Round 2 – Single crochet twice in each stitch, another way of saying single crochet increase (12 stitches)

  • Round 3 – Single crochet in the first stitch, and single crochet twice in the next, x 6 (18 stitches)

  • Round 4 – Single crochet in the first two stitches, and single crochet twice in the next stitch, x 6 (24 stitches)

  • Round 5 – Single crochet in the first 3 stitches, and single crochet increase in the next stitch, x6 (30 stitches)

What you are doing is repeating the instructions. So say that you single crochet in the first stitch, and then single crochet increase in the next, all you do is repeat the process 5 more times, for a total of 6 times, and 18 stitches. It takes a bit of practice, but I promise once you get it, you will know it by heart.

I really hope you enjoyed this tutorial, and if you have any questions or wish to learn more, feel free to contact me at elizabeth@cupcakecrochetstudio.com Thank you, have an amazing day!

 

Leave a Reply